My friend (A-group TD) is going racing this year, after one yr of TD's. Good rider, smart/safe/smooth/semi-fast A-group....well thought out, not banzai rider. He still intimidated about going from no-throttle to on throttle mid corner. He gets good lean angle for TD tires. Gsxr750. He weigh about 175 w/out gear. Just bought used bike to race. MW slow/med speed tracks (gateway/mcra, BHF/CCS, etc). He rode bike once and doesnt like the lack of power and weak midrange (prefers his 750 motor). Bike is oem 2008 gsxr600, oem stock except for, SS-lines, pipe, case-gaurds, Brembo lever and race-glass. He doesnt have money for aftermarket suspension/geometry right now. I reccomended him a 520 converesion w/ -1/+2, to give the bike some ass. And Kurvygirl vesrah std RJL's, for braking power/feel. And Pirelli or Mich race tires + warmers (I loan/give him my old warmers) Any other low-cost suggestions? I think my 01 oem 600 had 10-mm spacer on rear oem shock and flush Forks/Triples. Would that hold true for an 08/600? Thank you!!!
Those bikes liked to be lofted high in the air, spacing out the shock and lowering the forks in the triple (raising the front end) was the hot ticket. I have a geometry chart at my house for what should be a really good baseline I'll try to remember to scan when I get home tonight.
Yup....if the suspension is stock than flush the forks in the clamps (can even drop them a few mm's past) if no fork cap extenders are being used, and throw a 5mm shim in the rear shock cleavis.
Well, when you're limited to the stock suspension bits you can only go so far. Ideally you want to raise both the front and rear further than that, but it require extenders on the forks to keep it in balance. It also depends to some extent on what dimension of rear tire they're using too. Some more reading material here I posted: http://forums.13x.com/index.php?threads/2011-2017-suzuki-gsx-r600-750-geometry-settings.345722/
What he said, flush the forks with the top clamp (since you dont have cap extenders) and shim the rear (5-10mm). I also kept the wheelbase shorter (I don't remember the pivot to axle length off the top of my head). He may be too heavy for the stock suspension, I know I was for the stock 07 600 suspension and I weighed 185 at the time. Of course maxing out the preload made the bike terrible on bumpy tracks. -1/+2 will help. The GSXR actually has good midrange for a 600, but the stock motor stops making power after 14.5k rpm so dont rev it much past that unless there a braking zone where it wouldnt make sense to shift into the next gear. He will be able to use the midrange to get up next to an R6 off the corners, but then he will get pulled on up top. Also, find a stock 06/07 header. It's catless and can make a budget full exhaust with a slip on.
Yes, same #'s i ran on my oem 01/600gsxr +10mm rear, flush on front.....-1/+2, with short wheelbase. I didnt know if that would hold true for 08 bike....Thank you. He has slip on now, so Good looking out on the header!!!!
Is there a mathmatical formula for how many mm's in the front ='s how many mm's in the rear, to keep a constant? I am not a scientist/mathmatician.....far from it
I don't know the tracks you mentioned, but if there are any longer straights he'll run out of gear with that setup. I'm stock front and +1 rear at VIR to stay out of the rev limiter through the kink. I'd have to check details, but I was -1 in the front for tracks like CMP and Barber where there are no straights to speak of.
I ran a td at Barber on a 929 w/ -1/+12.....thing was accellerating/shiftiing like a 2-stroke GP bike......bam bam bam bam, lol. I was bouncing off limiter long before start/finish, haha Razorblade throttle.....was leaving darkies when I would roll off the throttle (rear camera)
Stunta gearing for stunta bike.....TD on it, rekindled my love for racetrack, and got me to buy new racebike
