I just bought one,and was reading about the charging requirements.Can't undercharge, don't overcharge. Minimum 14v,max 14.4 volts. Do I have to buy the Ballistic charger,or can I buy one from a auto parts store and pre set the charge? The thing is stupid light,I just don't want to damage it.It comes 30% charged,and I have zero knowledge on how to maintain this thing.Thanks for any advice
Only use a charger specifically made for Lithium batteries would be my suggestion. The charger they were selling appeared to be a rebranded Tecmate Optimate. Since Ballistic is out of business I just purchased an Alliant battery and they listed the Tecmate Optimate Lithium chargers as well on their site. Any Parts Unlimited dealer can get you one or STG carries them as well: https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/tecmate-tm471-optimate-lithium-0-8a-battery-charger/ There is also a 5 amp version but for me personally I didn't see the need for the extra amps.
Im using the optimate tecmate luthium charger on one ballistic battery....using a battery tender junior on another. Research told me that the battery tender works perfectly fine with a lithium battery. Other brand of tenders may not be suitable for lithium batteries.
if it was only "30%" charged its junk. I had a new one come to me below 10 volts. It was not able to be revived after using their specific charger. Should be at least 13.5 out of the box.
You just don't want to put one of those real old "dumb" chargers on there or one that will try to de-sulfate (see chargers that claim to "restore" or "repair" your battery. It just tries to shove current through to break off the sulfates, which is bad for lithium chemistry. A large majority of modern chargers are safe for lithium batteries, just have to check them out, use low amps too. One caveat is the balance chargers. Inside those batteries are individual batteries, chained together to make 12-14 volts. The balance chargers that the lithium battery people sell chargers each cell to the 3-3.5 volts or so it needs. The advantage here would be if you have a mixed bag of cell conditions inside the battery, it can charge them accordingly. Otherwise any lithium-safe battery charger works just fine. You can use any charger really....but the big key is not to overcharge it. And your bikes' generator when rectified properly, barely charges your battery at all and only up to a safe voltage (rectified). That said, a faulty rectifier that allowed too much voltage could theoretically make your battery catch fire.
I disagree with the bike's ability to "barely" charge batteries at all. If they aren't capable of charging a battery upwards of 14+vdc, there's an issue with the charging system. So we're clear on terminology, for those that may be confused... - Rectifiers convert AC voltage to DC voltage. - Regulators limit the max voltage output after rectification.
Yes, just used to calling the whole assembly on bikes a rectifier and get into the habit of sticking with that term, but it does both things, on the same board. I'll still say maintaining 14V from it, is not the same as the output of every/any battery charger out there. Just wanting to say that just because your bikes little generator does both, that you can then use any battery charger on both. Needs to be a simple charging/low(regular) voltage charger like your bike does, but with a little more amperage maybe so it's not a super long time to charge. My old RV's regulator now....that could cook a battery on a good track weekend on the generator. Anyways, maybe to your point, it doesn't need to be too special a charger, I use a $10 bike master charger on one of my batteries and a tender Jr on the other. Just need to avoid the "extras" that work well for lead acid types.
I know some of you have luck and like BatteryTenders for long term, but they've killed every battery I've ever hooked up for storage purposes and have too little amperage to bring a battery up with anything more than a surface charge, which also ruins 'em. I'll stick to my Sears trickle/boost/start charger...hasn't failed to do what I want it to, yet. I can't count the number of batteries it's been connected to but it's way more than the number of batteries I've had ruined with BatteryTenders. (Which is why I stopped/refuse to use BTs anymore.) Are BTs convenient? Sure, until your battery dies a premature death. Again, just sayin'...no argument, YMMV.
I've seen that the Battery Tender Junior 800 is highly recommended and has an option for lead and LiFePo4 batteries, I would go with that one. On this topic, does hard acceleration/deceleration actually do a better job of charging the battery compared to just cruising around. Some say its a myth, others swear by it.
First I've heard of it...sounds like rocket surgery for which, me thinks, we need not concern ourselves. There may be something to it, but I think the layman's evidence would be purely anecdotal.
Charging output is directly related to RPM (up to a certain point) so riding it is better than just letting it idle, but acceleration or deceleration would really have any effect.
Yup, it was RPM. So the idea is, if you hold your RPMS at around 4000-5000RPM for 10 seconds you use the max potential of your charging system to charge the battery as opposed to cruising around shifting at 2000RPM which doesn't accomplish much. "Up to a certain point", how does it differ from engine to engine, is there a formula for it?
totally depends on how the charging system is designed... Most manuals will tell you at which RPM to check for correct charging output, usually that number is the minimum threshold for maximum output and any RPM over that will have approximately the same output.
My downtime for battery equipped bikes is from late August/September to early May. No tenders. "But, but...letting them drain is bad!" Yeah, after a couple hundred times. If I think I'm gonna want it to fire up tomorrow, I check it today. Reminds me, maybe I'll check the 'Zuk'...hasn't run since August. Like I said earlier, YMMV. Some people think geographic location is also a variable, whether due to temps or humidity. I've had 'em fail everywhere and anywhere, after they've had a good long life. I don't charge 'em without providing them an opportunity to discharge. Use it or lose it is a motto for a lot of things in my life. Let sleeping dogs lie is another.
According to some manufacturers the temperatures definitely play a role in longevity, but some of the info is conflicting, you don't know what to believe. Some of them state that hot temperatures above 40C approx. is adverse to battery life and some of them even encourage storing the battery in the fridge.
Oops. Forgot about the 'Zuk'...last ran late August, 2018. So I go into my own little dungeon to visit the Maxxis livery GSX-R750. She's sitting quietly on her stands as I, with an uncommon and new-found trepidation made manifest by the integrity I would show should I sheepishly return to the Beeb with a tale of woe, find the on switch. Sliding it to the energized position, I'm met with a healthy whine of pump, brilliant gauge lighting and a smooth and quickly sweeping tach needle. So far, so good. As I uncork the exhaust, relevant thoughts run through my head... - is there fuel in the tank - what's the starting procedure - how thick is this coat of dust I reach for the clip-ons, pull the clutch lever and hit the start button. Not even the slightest... ...hesitation! That bitch fired right up, as if I had just parked it yesterday. I let it run for a minute or so to cycle the oil, which had the added effect of fumigating the space. Content with the level of nausea produced, I calmly switched her off and put the cork back in. The cat sleeping in the adjacent room was not pleased but I'm, quietly, enjoying a smug moment. <edit> Yuasa