did you use PT lumber or just regular pine? Also its a good idea to use some kind of "air barrier" underlayement (housewrap) like they do on roofs and sheeting between the studs and ceramic board. That way moisture doesnt get "trapped" for the termites or soak your insulation. Especially true if your bathroom is on an exterior wall (bump the R value for this). Also I usually grout the cement board seams with concrete and try to cover the fastener heads. One thing Ive come to like is the ADA compliant shower pans that are flush with the finished floor. Looks so much cleaner. Not something that could be easily adapted in your situation.
That sgosho be fine, if it's flat, or actually recessed a little, just no rises. If that makes sense. You absolutely don't need backer board.
Pine. I replaced the old fiberglass with rigid 3/4" foam then spray foamed around all the edges. Not completely sealed, but way better than before. used 1/2" water resistant backer board, and all sides are interior walls. House is on a slab, but right next to tub edge and shared wall with kitchen there is just gravel (???). Don't know if was built like that or slab cut out during 80's remodel or for some plumbing repair. Old plastic enclosure just had regular drywall behind it, then the fiberglass, then drywall on living room wall. You should see the electric in the place...
I took some time off from work a few months ago and did something similar. Tore out a garden tub in the master bath.... I then tore out the Sheetrock in the ceiling below the bathroom to see how I could reinforce it for the weight. The 24” off centers was too wide for me to comfortably put a shit ton of tile. It took a few painstaking days of trial and error with a plumber bro who’s one requirement for working for beer, was to be able to consume it while working, but we made it happens, and I had 12” off centers soon enough.... An electrical bro came in after I firmed up the walls and ceiling, and we upgraded the exhaust fans, put in some led ballasts, and installed a couple Bluetooth in-ceiling speakers (not pictured). Also, my plumber friend and I finished routing the plumbing so that the handle was on the opposite wall, and routed for a wand and rain head. We then put down the lining for the pan, put up the hardy, and filled the seams with latex. The final and most important step... called in the Mexicans... When the tile was done we did the rest of the trim work and installed the shower door. Turned out better than expected.
since this got bumped... got my shower knocked out and basement floor-workshop area knocked out this past month finally. Thanks for the advice on what to expect. I got one quote that was like $9k and I wanted to punch the dude in the face. 2nd quote was way more in line with what I was thinking after this thread and talking to my buddies at work. Flooring is AC5 and waterproof 12mm, like $3/sq. ft. for 240 feet or so, so it should take some hammer drops and fluid spills like a champ. Vigo pan and glass was like $800. Drain had to be repositioned and 2 water pipes in the wall had to be moved, added like $400. All in all I was in it for like $4500 though including patching a 2ft. sq. part of the kitchen ceiling and painting where it had leaked down from the shower. I really like the floor... now time to move my tool chest, work bench, motorbikes, etc... in that area all nice and hang all my pictures. Shower's a little industrial, but more importantly was the quality and less paying extra for tv level aesthetics. I'll worry about fancypants showering in the next home.
Started a year ago. Finished 4 months ago vs the planned 10 months ago All grohe fixtures, kohler doors Poured pan, repositioned toilet location... Ikea vanity and mirror cabinet, textured wallpaper Hated the 1/8” grout on the first subway tile job in the other bathroom, went 1/4” this time
Do you guys use an underlayment like Ditra on concrete floors? The guy at Lowe’s said I don’t need it but I’m worried about micro cracks in the concrete and messing the floor up. Also what’s the easiest way to remove the linoleum? I’ve been trying with a chisel and heat gun but man it’s taking forever!
the linoleum sucked! i ended up using an oscillating tool with a wide cutting blade. a planer would have been my plan B. no clue on underlayment @noles19 might have one
When we did our remodel the wife (not pictured) and her sister (pictured) did all our tile. Not perfect but I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out.......
I also used an oscillating multitool to remove stubborn linoleum (most of it was pretty loose). I didn't have to deal with underlayment in my case, the self leveler over the heat cable took care of that. Unless your slab is a lot smoother and flatter than mine I'd think you'll be needing something.
I normally get up under the linoleum with a flat bar and the a roofing shovel, if you're lucky it will come up in big pieces, then use a Razer scraper to clean the residue off. It's a big pain in the ass regardless. And you can use a crack isolation tape on concrete joints and go straight to the concrete. But if you can afford it ditra is always nice and the best option.
Tore up my sunroom floor last spring. Only just got around to tiling. Went with the Schluter Ditra heat for in floor heat and large format wood look tile.
i don't feel bad taking forever to finish my basement project that started in November. still have to connect the lighting and patch the ceilings, and well make sure nothings leaking. haven't even checked :|
Great choice and job with the ditra. But fuck working with 4 foot tiles, I had to help put them up a wall, including cutting 2 inches off the width by the length of the tile with an grinder and no molding to cover
