The cylinders of my R6 have a pronounced bevel on the top. When I am installing my pistons and rings the oil ring clears the ring compressor but gets stuck in the bevel. I have screwed around with this all day but I cannot get them installed. Am i doing something wrong or is there some secret to this?
Tried that on one more out of frustration than anything.Piston felt tight in the cylinder so I pulled it out to find a broken top oil ring.
Chako think I better understand what you are saying now that i got home and tinkered with it some more. I put the piston and rings into the compressor and placed the piston skirt into the cylinder so that the oil ring was probably 1/4 or 1/2 inch from the bottom off the compressor. I twisted the compressor and piston in the cylinder to make sure it was aligned. Then with a swift firm hit it popped in. I was lightly tapping it in before and only put real force once it was stopped. That doesn't work.
It's possible the Inside diameter of your installation tool is larger than the Inside diameter of the cylinder bore. This greatly complicates installation.
Ive tried to get an accurate ID of the tool but since its tapered I cannot get repeatable measurements. The measurements i have gotten indicate that it is not smaller than the cylinder but I cannot say for absolute certain. As Rick said above I think getting it squared is key and then giving it a solid whack. I have to wait for my new rings to come in to give it a whirl, but I am hopeful that I can get them in now. This whole thing is so frustrating. I have built 6 or 7 4G63 mitsubishi engines when i drag raced cars and not once did I have any issue getting a piston in.
I have substituted the old oil control rings for new ones in the past. They are more flexible. You won't lose power.
I know an old guy, WAY smarter than I will ever be, always re-uses the ring sets.(Thorough cleaning) Replaces top compression ring only.
I have new rings but i damaged some of the top oil rings trying to install them. I have multiple sets of used pistons that are in good shape that I never pulled the rings off. You guys are saying if I clean the used oil rings and inspect for scuffs or wear, that they would be suitable to run again? I would still be using brand new top and middle rings.
So I cleaned up some old rings I had to try it again. The picture is the result I get, which is no different as before. The piston goes into the cylinder but is obviously too tight so i pull it out to find the broken upper oil ring. Once I pull all three oil rings off and put just the top two rings on I can pop the piston in with no issue which I am assuming means its not the ring compressor.
Try one with the used oil control rings. Use more oil. Don't force it if it stops. Remove it and start over.
Finally got them in. I used the used oil rings, and the bigger key i think it getting the pistons absolutely perfectly square. As you can see from the shiny everywhere I didnt skimp on the oil either. Thanks for everyone's input.
Dude thats awesome. I've rebuilt an old 77 gs750 but didnt care if it made 20hp (which may be accurate) and burnt oil. Are you just sending stuff out to be machined and building it yourself? Hoping one day I have the time and money to do that to a motor myself. It's got to be extremely rewarding to race a motor you built.
I sent the head off to get done. The bottom end of these engines don't really need any machining. I measured everything on the bottom end to make sure everything is where it needs to be. Put new rods, bearings, pistons, rings, and every gasket and oring was replaced. I am doing it exactly for what the reason you stated. I love working on these things(most of the time) and ripping around the track on something I built every component of is something I will be proud of. Now all this is assuming the thing doesn't blow up upon starting. Right now I am riding around on Lockett's engine out of his totalled bike.
O shoot who is this? Did Jill finally drop the hammer and say no more racing fr him? Yea when I did that old motor I was talking about I didn't touch the crank. If you looks it up the old GS750s actually had roller bearings too in the bottom end so they really didnt need servicing.
Guys that know, @RM Racing, @humblepie , @lonewrench if he was checking the crank bearing clearance with new bolts from the new rods and possibly torqued them a few times, should he put in new rod bolts again? I've seen multiple 06+ R6's spit out a rod when guys reused the old bolts or old rods, so I always paid to replace them when mine was getting freshened. TIA for the education.