Dirt bikes

I know I know. If i saw a cheap 125 I'd prolly grab it. But I don't trust anyone who says that they just redid the top end. Or bottom for that matter. So I'd add on whatever I paid plus a complete rebuild.

 

Yeah his Sidi's look like a mix between RR boots and MX boots. I hate MX boots bc I can't feel my feel to shift or use the back brake.

 

Here ya go...just finance one of these leftover bastards for $100 month.
This is where i got my '13 WR450F for $4800 right after Thanksgiving

http://www.funmartcycle.net/s/search/inventory/type/Dirt Bikes/sort/best-match

I know it's gettin' out of your budget range, but man.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-Kawasa...232736ee:g:DIkAAOSw241YbX1k&item=112258922222

 

You'll love an MX boot the first time you get your foot stuck under your bike and you realize that they're bulky as hell for a reason. Get over it. Shift like you mean it and stop looking for feedback through the back brake pedal itself, feel what the tire is doing and nothing more.

 

Without question, you're right. My point was that, maintenance aside - these bikes are substantially hardy compared to a road bike. The latest bike here didn't even fire it up until everything was replaced with aftermarket goods. Bodywork, exhaust, clutch pack, handlebars, air filter - it's all in box ready for the next owner.

Which reminds me, I need to get a seat, but some guys complain about the Acerbis Soft X-Seat being a little on the hard side for trail riding. Anyone here have experience with that seat?

 

Fine I'm stomping that shit.

 

From what I recall the 4 strokes call for piston replacement every 15 - 20 hours just like the 2 strokes and the smokers are way easier to take care of. And when they grenade they are less than 1/2 to fix. People mistakenly think that 4 stroke MX bikes are as reliable as their dad's XR250...

 

Hmmmmmmmmm but when looking at used bikes that means the suspension and all other components are beat to shit. Strictly based on age if nothing else

 

I been looking for seat alternatives for the WR. Seat Concepts, Enduro Engineering seem to be the go to people.

 

Fine then.... BAM!!!!!!!!!! $1500???

http://neworleans.craigslist.org/mcy/5948262539.html

 

While were trying to enable you into a bike (lol), to address that ingrained roadracer front brake thing, that doesn't hold water either. Despite that I've ridden/raced offroad off-on since 1970..from my roadracing days, as well as a lifetime of street riding, I always ride w 100% front brake covered and pretty much ingrained to always go 100% all-front when going full-instinct. Imo, a typical roadracer in actuality, has (much) better front brake modulation skills then the average dirt rider. So much so, thats its really a non-issue (qualifier: provided with a good full knobby). They'll adapt after the first ride on a given bike. 2nd reason is its not incorrect whatsoever to do. I and surely many others dirt riders, use the front for prolly 80-90% of their true "effective" braking.

The 125.. Get a 250 if you go 2t. I loved and raced 2t 125s only, for 12 seasons. But for reg trail riding, I'd much rather have a 250 2t(much MUCH wider more-usuable powerband). Less maint then a 125 too. I ride a woods prep'd YZ250 2t for the real stuff, and absolutely love to ride it over my 2 4t dirt only/DS bike.

Another boot option.. After using some cheap entry level boots (Thors lowest level)..last season I snag'd some barely used A* Tech 8s used off Ebay. $400 new. Paid $150 shipped. Higher end boots tend to have more feel and dexterity. Which is important imo. But still provide pretty good protection. But I hate paying $400, so I'm good.

 

Swingarm bearing kits are cheap and you would need to have the suspension done anyhow. If I recall, you are not built like your average 150lb motocrosser...

 

Damn, looks solid.

 

Ok well yeah that logic makes sense. That was just my guess on the front brake thing that was It was the wrong thing to do. And as far as the 250 2t.... yeah not so sure about that. I've ridden them before and way too much bike for my skill set as of now. I am a complete and utter noob on dirt bikes. I appreciate your knowledge and experience. what you are saying completely makes sense, I wouldn't have to stay as high on the pipe to stay at a reasonable pace. But I may try the 125 then sell it for the same price and get the 250/450 later.

Well no, about 200lbs right now. I have to admit I do like like the idea of the 2t now that I am thinking about it. Aren't they also marginally lighter also?

 

Dude, I didn't ride a dirtbike for 20 years, then spent a week desert riding switching between a WR450 and an RMX250. Talk about two completely different type bikes. I had no problems modulating and using the power of either. Better to have and not need.... ;-)

 

Ricky Carmichael's crew chief said that he was always looking for more when it came to the front brake.

 

Get the receipts for any work done. No receipts? Then the work wasn't done. Even if it's receipts for parts, at least you know there are new parts in there.

 

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/5949199065.html

 

You can jet a 250 2t to get the power exactly where you want it. Tame? Easy, just raise the needle to make it richer. Need more top end snap? Lean out the middle of the needle with a different taper or lower the needle to make it leaner.

 

But how many trees are in the desert? Everything is intensified with speed, that means the trees are now coming faster and the brake markers earlier.

I cannot be convinced into going bigger that my skill set can handle. No reason for it. I've owned both a 250F and 125 2t and both are plenty fast enough. I have also ridden a 250 2t.