weird... I wonder if Mazziotto & Ellington cut the chicane out? I know Yates & Stroud went toe to toe on 150rs ... getting into the :39s during the money race a couple months ago.
I have an xr100 with an '86 cr80 front end and no question I'm faster with that setup. Now by no means am I one of the fast guys in my mini club but simply having the confidence that my brakes will work consistantly and not just make me feel like I was hit by a strong headwind when I pull the brake lever was inspiring. Granted I did convert it to 12's so that could've helped a bit too..
I have one on my bike that's aluminum and another still in the packaging for the 2002 I'm rebuilding "for my daughter." I'll try to snap a pic of the new one. It's buried on my work bench.
Actually they may have gotten together and cut a portion of the track rejoining. I swear Gavin has run a high :41.x though.
How are the SSR's for mini racing? They can be had rather cheap and a neighbor of mine has 2 of them (CRF50 frame with 125cc motors) and says that they have been great and trouble free but have any of you used them at Herrin's or other tracks in mini sumo form?
A lot depends on the specific SSR you go with, and if you get an actual SSR or random Chinese barrel scraping with 'SSR' decals. The low end of their price range basically nets you a CRF50 with a bigger motor made out of crap metal. Go up the food chain a bit and you get a platform that can work quite well for a long time with proper maint.
Ive seen a few. They were the higher end models with 12" wheels, better forks, and rear shock, though. The horizontal motors can be made to haul ass.
Agreed I bought one of the cheaper knock off bikes and the head bearings were not pressed in straight, the bolts were all really soft and would just strip the threads if you tried to take anything off. Carbs were hit or miss worked some of the time. The SSR, pitster pro and Pirahnas are all pretty good. I have seen them run for years and years but you need to be able to work on them cause most bike dealerships will not touch them. But at their price point you might as well get a little used 65cc two stroke.
Are there any mods to a ttr125 in terms of wheels swap (front) that can be done or would a better option be a YZ85 2T. Just looking for other options from a CRF100. Would love a 2t mini. But on a CRF budget haha
Here is my SSR150. I got it with a beat motor for 200. And as the others look for the upper end ones. I have a Coolster 70 also and there far off from the SSR
if its the big wheel model... just lace up a stock rear 16 to the front hub. Less than $200. Then you can run the BT45s...
YZ85 17" front wheel is an easy swap onto a TT-R 125L / TT-R 125LE. All you need is a hacksaw to cut down the YZ wheel spacers and the TT-R caliper bracket. The internet will tell you that you can skip this step, just bolt it up but you'll be spreading the forks and increasing stiction. A Suzuki RM85 front wheel should just as easily swap in and are typically much cheaper to find used. If you want to go 'all in' a YZ85 front end is a pretty straight swap. Press the steering stem out of your TT-R's lower clamp, press it into the YZ85's lower clamp and... it all bolts up from there. If you drill the choke cable bracket you can use a longer bolt for the front number plate to hold it in place, keeping everything OEM tidy. In back, if starting with a TT-R 125L or TT-R 125LE just keep the stock 16" rear wheel.
So a TTR125L rear wheel laced up to a OEM front hub works. What about a YZ85 16" rear wheel laced up to a OEM front hub. Does that work also? I assume it would.
Based on the rules of the orgs near me I'm staying with the 19" front on my TTR-125L...........just to confirm on sizing - I want two front tires, correct? Sizing is 100/90-19 and 100/90-16, right? Or should I go with 110 for the rear? Both tubeless - I'm assuming that's not an issue but please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks guys.
No you'll have to lace it up or have someone to do it for you. Think the rim is $75 from yamaha. Spokes/nipples are $50 and then some labor for someone to lace it up.
After some research, seems like 110 rear is the way to go.............now, are you guys running tubes or tubeless on your racebikes? I've never changed a tire with a tube before so assumed I could go tubeless on the BT45s and be fine but research seems to indicate that spoke wheels will leak.