From the website: • HM Quickshifter SUPER LITE has 3 setting for sensitivity with a fixed ignition kill time, so you can control how you use the gearbox and how you want the HM Quickshifter to work / feel. The load cell sensitivity is adjustable (amount of pressure it takes to activate). From the manual: The HM Super Lite is already set up for your motorcycle. If however, you would like to fine tune the quickshifter then this is easily achieved via the LED signals emitted at power-up. The setting that can be adjusted on the HM Super Lite is LOAD SENSITIVITY, which has 3 settings. When the HM Super Lite is powered up, it indicates the setting once by flashing the LED: 1 blip: Low Sensitivity 2 blips: Medium Sensitivity 3 blips: High Sensitivity When looking through their website, it looks as though you order the the super lite for the specific bike you are using it for. I would only assume they test the bikes and see what kill time is most effective for each application. It also appears they make them with adjustable kill times, but they are closer to the $500+ range. What bike are you going to use as the test subject?
I'll ask them about that but it was my understanding the only difference was wiring connectors. Mine is going on an Fzr400
I did read somewhere on their website that the kill time was set to 60ms. From what I understand, that is not a long enough duration for the SV. I would need one in the 70-80ms range. Maybe when you talk to them, see what kind of deal we could get on models that have the adjustable kill times.
This is why I'm concerned about clearances. You can see where I had to grind on the rearset so the rod won't contact during downshifts. There isn't much room between the rod and frame or shifter during operation either. I also fully expect that this is a problem unique to my mess.
I think an FJ1200 knuckle is the normal suggestion for that, but that then puts the rod into the shift lever itself on downshifts.
Hah, not quite ready for that yet, I like this FZR too much. Eventually I'll either re-create the old, more aggressive rearsets it had or I'll extend that footpeg a bit so the shifter is further from the frame. Plan C is just figure out a direct mount shifter for GP duty?
It has nothing to do with how fuel gets into the engine. It has to do with how the coils function. This is important. If you don't get it that's fine. Most shifters work with TCI ignitions, carbs or fi is illrelivant. I have only seen very specific versions that work with CDI.
Do your homework. If you want one buy it. If not don't. These connect to the coils the same way the dynojet and most other manufacturers do. It connects on the low voltage side of the coil intercepting the signal to fire
Ahh grasshopper... CDI doesn't really have a "low voltage" side. But, thanks for your answer anyways.
So So your cdi puts out high voltage lol. Probably best if you abstain from this transaction. I was trying to do something nice for anyone who might have an interest in buying one if it's not your cup of tea just move along. No big deal either way.
I was just trying to help make sure that "anyone" could use it. Hats off to you for getting the ball rolling.
The adjuster is moot really. I have the fully adjustable one. Installed it....worked great. never adjusted a thing.
Could everyone who's interested reply with just the year make and model of the bike you need the shifter for.