I'm thinking of getting an rc8, anyone here own one? I've found a new 2011 for $14500, not sure if that's a great deal or not. I was hoping to buy the bike for 13k but the dealer won't go that low. Yet. I've had a couple rsvr's, I'm hoping the ktm will be similar but maybe a little more comfortable and have more power and shit. Thanks guys.
The Factory R is a much different machine the the standard bike. Different suspension, motor has the good stuff, lighter wheels, and the Akro exhaust, and body work.. It's cheaper in the end to get the R and worth it. After hearing the same questions answered weekend after weekend, I can tell you that it will take a bit to get the gearing right, but overall it's a great raebike out of the box.
There are two models. The RC8R and the RC8R RS (Race Spec) which I think you are talking about. The RC8R the OP is referring to is the R model or street model. $14k is a great price and honestly, isn't going to get any better. There is a rebate for 2011s and they are identical to the 2012s. No changes or even BNGs. At $14,500, they are selling it at about the lowest I have seen them go. Retail was $16,999 and the new retail of the 2011s with the rebate is $15,999. So, they are knocking off $1400. That's pretty damn good. You have some room to go, but if you think $13k, they are selling it at below dealer cost and swallowing freight and prep and PDI. They aren't going to do that. Where are you located? I can help find a dealer if you need to find one. I have the RS and have a ton of seat time on the R model also. Loads of cool things for the bikes and a few little tweeks you can do to get better performance. I also have some springs that would work for you also in the forks. But, the stock forks are pretty darn good. Anyways, PM for any info.
Oh, and a few tidbits of info. The R (Street model) has essentially the thinner gaskets in it from the factory and different cams for better performance. The RS (Race Spec) comes with the thinner gaskets, but not installed. The R will also have a different ecentric pivot in the back for the shock than the RS. The R also has dual fire heads (Two plugs per cylinder) and a different crank assembly. In the end, if you took an R and race spec'd it out, you'd have a lot more money in it in the end. However, the performance would b slightly better. Basically, the R is an RS without the exhaust... An Akro is going to set you back around $3k plus. Then, add rearsets, levers, race plastic, etc and you see where it is going... The wheels are another difference, but in race trim, the cast wheels on the R are not really that big a deal vs the forged wheels on the RS. The RS is the 2010 platform and has the coated forks also. In the end, it is a bit of a give and take. Out of the box, the RS is really awesome. The gearing idea is that you need to not think inline and think low end use of the torque curve. It is crazy to wrap your head around, but once you do, it all works great. Out of th box, both bikes are VERY capable machines. Slap on some rearsets on the R and a good set of tires and you got a killer track bike... This weekend at Mid-Ohio, outside mine and the two staff RC8s, there were three other RC8s. It's really cool seeing more and more of them out there as the more we get, the more info that will flow out and around.
just out of curiosity, is it possible to tag/title the RS if you get lights and stuff sorted out? wasn't sure how it came from the factory... also since they have released some of the 2013 off road lines, any chance they will have a 450EXC for 2013? I have an 07 450 XC (tagged) and really want a street legal 450 XC-W.
I don't have much to add because I haven't ridden one. But I sat on Scott Brown's last year and it is by far the most comfortable sportbike i have ever sat on. It literally felt like my Triumph Sprint. And after racing against it, i can say the torque is ridiculous. The thing jumps out of slow corners like a rocket.
Thanks again guys. I'm definitely going for the R model, this will start out just being a street bike that I will do some track days on. The plan is to sell my Aprilia race bike, just have the ktm for a while, and hopefully return to racing on a sv. I'm in Massachusetts, talking to a dealer in New Hampshire. Think I'll offer $14,000.
14k is a great deal . Was looking into them for a friend a month ago. Lowest I could find here was 16k. Found one for 13k , but it was used.
It would be very tough as it has a thinned down wiring harness. All needed wiring for lights, etc are gone... You'd have a ton in it to make it street legal. It also has for off road use only on the VIN sticker...
It was good to see you out on your RC8 on Monday at MidO. I have a couple of questions for you. I rode the streetbike version at MidO last fall. Loved the bike with only 2 exceptions, and I'd like to find out if these can be 'adjusted.' 1/ to what degree can the bike be lowered on the suspension if I had the RS version? The R that I rode sat up way too high of the pavement for my comfort. 2/the throttle was super snatchy (i.e. abrupt) on initial throttle opening; this was especially noticeable out of the keyhole. Can this be softened with adjustments to the FI mapping? Can any Dynojet shop handle this or does the ECU require special equipment or a special hardware interface? How do you adjust the mapping on yours? thank you!
The previous owner of my 990 Adventure put the G2 Throttle Cam System on to smooth out the throttle response. Still seems hard to modulate just off idle for me so I can only imagine what it "tamed".
The rear pivot can be adjusted to be lower. But, it is minimal. Nothing like removing and replacing links for a drag bike for example. I am sure there are some things you could change, but the way they use the pivot from shock to swingarm is different and I do not know of anything. Lowering it is something due to seat height for you? I am average in height and have zero issues and the RS has a superbike seat/tail and is taller yet. But, you can lower the subframe which keeps the needed ride height, but lowers your seat height. That is a good difference... Throttle issues are usually guys that come from in-lines to the bike. They are somewhat different, but I do not have any issues. Of course, I have a lot of seat time on the bike and could be used to it. But, we do have some options. You can use a different throttle tube with different throw ratios. You can use a Dyno Jet system and that could help I suppose. Mine is right out of the crate. Just like you would buy and I am thrilled with it. I went to clip-ons vs the OEM clip-ons (I am using LSL from Speigler) and that's really it. Everything else is KTM Power Parts or stock as it came in the crate...
More power of course with the thinner gaskets and the timing needs adjusted. The bike comes with adjustement plates to allow for that change. I don't know the feel as the only SS kitted one I rode was on the street in CA for a short ride... Dyno numbers though show a difference. I think if I remember correctly, almost 10 HP with the cam timing and gaskets? Might be about 8 really... I would have to double check for certain.