thanks Monte...that's should save me about about the cost of a SST tack day over the course of a season.
Shell Rotella synthetic ? I've been running Amsoil 10w40 in my Cannondale engines and the seperate tranny oil too,with NO problems,but I get it for wholesale pricing,and its approx.$6./qt. with the frequency of oil services,it may be worth a shot,with all ya'lls great comments...in my FZ motor,not the C'Dale...I ain't takin NO chances with those evil biatches...I may be able to save some cash on the cheaper priced Rotella subtance, now if only I could a "WallyWorld"store...
What weights are you guys using? I've checked it out and it looks like they make a 5/40 and a 15/30. Just curious.
I forgot to post up when my test results came back on the TLR oil. I don't have the form in front of me (I'm at work right now) but while I'm thinking about it... In a nutshell, after a full track weekend and all of the GNF, all of the important properties of the oil were not significantly degraded as compares to new/fresh oil. Viscocity retention was very high (can't recall the number), and there were no untoward levels of any acid (from combustion byproducts) or any other probs. When I got the form I compared it to a bunch of my past stuff, and it's consistent w/ past tests on this and other oil, which is to say that if the price of Rotella-T went up to $30/gal tomorrow, I'd still use it. I believe that there is no better oil for any motor. At $16/gal it's a steal.
There is an interesting article in the latest issue of "Chevy High Performance" mag where the President of Royal Purple is being interviewed. Even he has confirmed that there isn't ANY engine oil on the market that is 100% synthetic. Every one of them has a crude oil base. The crude base is highly refined and then subjected to a process that changes the molecular makeup before all of the "packages" of additives are introduced. The biggest advantage of any of the "synthetic" oils is the better protection for higher temperatures and shear strength. On a second note, Rotella and delo are two oils that far surpass all the requirements for all of the diesel engine manufacturers and is some of the best oils on the market. The only oils that are questionable are the newer EPA approved oils for automobile use. (Energy efficent) Those will be the 0/20, 5/20, 10/30 oils. Most of the new auto engines are set up with very close tolerances along with the new 3mm thick rings (low drag) low tension oil control rings (low drag) which makes EPA happy. In your travels if you ever come across someone that has some of the old "DG" rated oil in the weights that you run, BUY IT. :up:
No, the 10-30 is the non-synth. AFAIK the synthetic only comes in 5W40. BigWill, see my post above re: the test for that particular oil change.
is there any difference in viscosity or level of protection from 5w-xx vs 10w-xx once the oil is to operating temperature. As I mentioned before, the WalMart by me only carries the 5w-40 synthetic Rotella T. I thought you mentioned that you were using 15w-40 in you bikes.
There are some differences but in our case they are so minimal it's not worth worrying about. If you have a few spare hours you can do a web search to get the scientific data on viscosity differences. The main number we're interested in is the second number (40wt.) Use the weight the manufacturer recommends for max reliability. Either one of the Rotellas in 40wt will work. I couldn't agree more.
If I said 15w40, it's a mistake on my part. I haven't put any oil in any of my vehicles for many years but the Rotella-T synth (apart from times where I couldn't get it), and it only comes in 5w40. I don't remember how that stuff works re: temp and viscosity...CLICKYCLICK for a great article that explains all kinds of cool oily stuff (including viscocity ranges I think...I just don't remember).
I got the rotella T oil today too (5w40) $15...it was the only synthetic Wally world had. The only question I have is am I ok to put it in the bike. (I wanted to check one last time before I put it in). I thought motorcycle oil is different because it lubes the transmission and clutches too. I just want to make sure I'm OK and that I'm not going to ruin my clutches. Lastly, since I'm dealing with a whole gallon, how many quarts does an '06 R6V take? I hate that there's no site glass.