My new bike, '06 GSXR600, has a slipper clutch, my first. What is the best oil to run in it. The bike has 2700 miles, 0 of which I have put on it. The bike will only be used on the track. I don't have a owners manual to see what they recommend so I need some help.
+1 +1 +1 +1!!! For the performance of this product and the price, you can not beat this synthetic oil - just my .02
THere is Rotella-T synth. and regular Rotella-T. Both are excellent, both are cheap, and both are sold by the gallon at WalMart. There is no better oil at any price.
I use Mobil1 but I have heard great things about the Shell Rotella. I think you can pick up 1 gallon containers at Wally World for about $15.
are people running the Rotella T or Rotella T Synthetic in their race bikes? If it is the regular Rotella T....what weight? That stuff was like $7/gallon last night at Walmart.
Are you guys being serious?!?! Shell Rotella T Syn from Wally World? I'm assuming you’re changing your oil and filter after every weekend? I would be afraid to run less expensive oil for more then a weekend. I normally use Motul 300V ($40 per gal) and would love to use a cheaper alternative if it provides the same protection.
I was in Wallyworld last night and after reading this thread yesterday I was checking out the oil. You mention being hesitant to use less expensive stuff....well, I was told last night that Walmart's "Supertech Oil" is all made by Mobil 1 and just repackaged for Walmart...and that stuff is the cheapest oil they carry...like $1.50/Qt :up:
Beware, not all automotive oils are the same! This has been debated endlessly on this forum, do a search for like "Rotella oil" or something. This helps: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html Yes its long, but well worth it.
Wayyyyy back.... like 1985 when i was in high school, i worked at a packaging facility for a oil wholesaler (PennGlenn Oil). We bottled oil, antifreeze, and Coleman stove fuel. We would package Penzoil, K-Mart, Jaguar, and various other private labeled oils out of the same tank. Same goes for Antifreeze. It was an eye-opener. BTW, i have read the above linked article a while back and have run RotellaT full synthetic in my racebike for the last two years. Shifts great and the guts of the motor looked good come rebuild time.
Good read. Based on this article Shell Rotella T Syn still contains some Group III oil. I believe it's 13% so it's not a pure synthetic. He also confirms what I held to be truth. If you use any good oil and change it frequently your engine will be fine. As a racer I change my oil every other race weekend or every weekend if I put in a practice day before the races. It may be time to try something different (and cheaper).
I run the synthetic. I have run the dino stuff when I didn't have any of the synth, and I thikn I had 15w40, but I"m not certain.
Ya, virtually all "synthetic" oil actually has organic base stock these days. I _think_ the only readily available literally fully synthetic oils are Amsoil, Red LIne synthetic and Mutul's high-end one (I forget the specific name). Also Royal Purple maybe, but I'm not sure on that one. All others including Mobil-1, Castrol Syntec, Golden Spectro, Bel-Ray synthetic, Rotella-T synthetic, etc. have organic base stock. FWIW I have used Blackstone Labs a bunch of times to do oil analysis on my race bikes and street bikes, and I've yet to see an oil that retains all its various important qualities better than Rotella-T synth, and that includes just about all of the hi-buck bike oils (haven't tried the super-expensive Motul). The last one I did was in the R6 I started the season on, and after a track day and 2 full race weekends, the Rotella wasn't close to used up...in fact it wasn't meaningfully different than new. I still change it every other race weekend because it makes me feel better, but there's no reason to. In my streetbikes I've had it tested at 7,500 miles and it was still good...but for the same ingrained 'I'm-supposed-to-change-my-oil' attitude that I can't ever seem to shake, I change it at around 5,000 miles. On a side note, the only oil I ever had tested that truly sucked was Spectro (non-synth, the base model one). It was completely shot at 2,500 miles, run in a CB700S streetbike. Others I had tested have been Amsoil (that's how I learned about the tests), Mobil-1, Motul semi-synth, Castrol GTX, and Valvoline dino car oil. Mobil-1, Amsoil, and Shell were essentially tied performance-wise, but the Rotella is way cheaper than the others, so it gets the nod. Also, the Motul didn't last as long as any of those, but it did outlast the dino car oils. For the $10/qt it cost at that time, it was highway robery.
I would love to see how the Motul 300V Factory Line holds up. That’s what I've been using for some time now. I use it in my race bike and my street bike. The stuff's not cheep! Thanks for the great info Diet. How much did the lab analysis cost?
Oh, it's cheap...go to CLICK HERE to go to the Blackstone site. I bought a bulk pack of test kits/tests when they offered them a while back, but I think individually they're under $25 each. You get the kit free, then pay when you send it in. You'll get a report back that tells you the composition of the oil, viscosity retention, acidity, etc. and they will help you interpret the result...pretty cool. I bet you US$1 that after doing a comparo w. Rotella-T synth. an the hi-dolla Motul, you'll be a Shell man
Full synthetic Rotella T rocks. I only have to carry one kind of oil. Freaks the customers out when I use the same oil for he ZX6, Mille and Freightliner!!!! Buy it in gallon jugs at >$20 a gallon.
Hi there Monte! How did you like the CR shorts Hey, you cna buy it at Wallyworld ffor $16/gal, just fyi
The test would more then pay for itself if I stop buying Motul. And as far as your bet goes, let’s do this. I'll do the test and post some results. If you're right then I'll have to have a Yuengling with you. If I'm right then you'll have to have a Yuengling with me. We can't lose!!